Citrus fruits of Chios

The citrus fruits of Chios, beyond the famed mandarin, include oranges, lemons, bitter oranges and citrons, all known for their intense aromatic strength and their rich juice content (1.2, 1.3). This quality is attributed to the distinctive soil and climate conditions of Kambos, with its slightly salty air and particular soils.

While the general term includes many species, the Chios Mandarin stands out as a Geographical Indication Product (PGI) (1.1, 1.2). This recognition certifies its uniqueness, which is based on its intensely characteristic aroma, its distinctive taste and the reputation it has established in the fresh fruit market (1.2). The other species, such as Citron (Citrus medica), Bitter Orange (Citrus aurantium), Orange and Lemon, although they do not bear an official protection status, are traditional varieties of Kampochora and are used primarily for the production of spoon sweets (such as tiny bitter orange, lemon blossom, citron), liqueurs (e.g. “gafas” liqueur from citron lemon) and juices/soft drinks (1.1, 6.3). Kumquat (Citrus japonica), although probably a later introduction, is now cultivated on the island, enriching the range of aromatic citrus fruits.

The heart of citrus cultivation on Chios is Kambos or Kambohora, a valley south of the town of Chios (3.1). This area is characterized by particularly sandy-loam soils, which are rich in organic matter and have good drainage, factors that are critical for the intensive cultivation of citrus fruits (2.3). The microclimate of Kambos is mild, with high sunshine and sufficient humidity, favoring the development of aromatic oils in the peel of the fruits.

The geographical location of Chios and, in particular, of Kambos, with its proximity to the formerly large markets of the Eastern Mediterranean and the Black Sea (e.g. Romania, the Russian Empire), historically played a decisive role in the development of citrus fruit trade, making them an “exportable product” and a source of great wealth for the island (2.3). The orchards of Kambos are traditionally enclosed by high stone walls for protection from the winds and for the preservation of humidity and the homogeneity of the microclimate within them, creating an ideal habitat for the trees (3.1).

The cultivation of citrus fruits in Kambos of Chios is historically characterized as intensive and is based on traditional practices, which are now combined, in many cases, with the principles of organic farming and sustainability (1.3, 2.3).

Cultivation and Care: The soil and climate requirements of citrus fruits are ideally met in Kambos; however, intensive production requires constant care, which includes irrigation (traditionally via wells with a “mangani” water-drawing device), fertilization, and control of pests/diseases (5.3). In organic cultivation, emphasis is placed on the use of natural fertilizers and on biological control, in order to maintain the balance of the orchard’s ecosystem. The management of tree size and their proper nutrition are critical for ensuring the quality of the fruits, which pass through three stages of development: cell division, rapid cell enlargement, and completion of ripening with a change in composition (reduction of citric acid, increase of sugars) (5.1).

Harvesting and Processing: The harvesting of the various citrus species takes place during the winter, depending on the variety and the ripening conditions (5.1). For example, the harvesting of mandarins is usually completed earlier, followed by oranges and then lemons (1.3). The process is carried out carefully by hand in order to preserve the quality of the fruit, especially when it is intended for fresh consumption or export. After harvesting, a large portion of the fruit, particularly traditional varieties such as bitter orange, citron and parts of the orange and lemon, is directed to local units for handmade processing. This processing focuses on the production of:

1. Natural juices and soft drinks, where the fruits are pressed immediately in order to preserve their aroma and freshness intact (1.3, 1.4).
2. Spoon sweets, where the peels are mainly used (e.g. small bitter oranges) (1.1, 6.2).
3. Distillates and liqueurs (e.g. citron-lemon liqueur) (6.3).

The cultivation of citrus fruits and the related commercial activity constituted for centuries the main source of wealth and the driving force behind the economic and cultural flourishing of Kampos and of Chios more broadly, especially during the periods of Genoese and Ottoman rule (3.1, 3.3). Citrus fruits, especially mandarins, were a luxury export product promoted to foreign markets, resulting in the overvaluation of orchards and intensive cultivation (1.2, 2.3).

Today, the impact is maintained in two main areas:

1. Economic & Commercial Impact: The production of citrus fruits (mandarins, oranges, lemons) continues to supply local businesses, which produce juices, soft drinks, spoon sweets and liqueurs. These businesses support local producers, showcasing the rich flavours of Chios both in Greece and in many countries abroad (1.3, 6.2, 6.3).
2. Cultural & Touristic Impact: The orchards of Kampos constitute a unique, protected cultural landscape (Kampochora), an integral element of Chian identity. The historic mansions within the orchards attract tourists, while the production of citrus fruits and the processed products (sweets, liqueurs) serve as characteristic souvenirs and ambassadors of the island’s gastronomy (3.1, 1.1).

The history of citrus fruits in Chios dates back at least to the 15th century, with references to unique varieties of oranges and mandarins (3.1). The heyday of their cultivation and trade is directly linked to the social and economic development of the Kambos area. During the centuries of Genoese and Ottoman rule, wealthy families (Byzantine lords, Genoese nobles, and Genoese-Chians) built the famous mansions within the orchards, turning Kambos into a place of residence and, at the same time, of primary production (3.1, 3.3).

The wealth derived from the export of citrus fruits (especially mandarins) to Romania, Russia, and other countries in Europe and the Mediterranean was immense, making citrus fruits a luxury product (1.1, 2.3). This led to the development of intensive cultivation and the creation of specialized trading houses in Chios, which understood the demands of foreign markets (2.3). Although the devastating earthquake of 1881 and postwar changes in global trade led to the decline of large-scale cultivation, tradition and know-how remain alive, especially through local businesses that are reviving old recipes and practices (3.3, 6.2).

The cultivation of citrus fruits and life in Kambos have shaped a series of customs and practices related to rural life:

• The “Moulki” and the “Anestatis”: Kambos was full of “moulkia” (estates/farms) where mansions were combined with orchards (3.1). The care of these estates was entrusted to the “anestatis” and his family, who lived permanently on the property to cultivate it. This arrangement ensured the family’s self-sufficiency and the uninterrupted care of the trees.
• Spoon Sweet as a Treat: Citrus fruits (particularly bitter orange, orange, lemon, and citron) were the raw material for spoon sweets, which became established as the quintessential traditional treat and sweet welcome for visitors in every Chian home, always accompanied by a glass of ice-cold water (1.1, 6.2).

The citrus fruits of Chios, with their richly aromatic peel and juice, are widely used in the local cuisine, in both sweet and savory preparations. Mandarins play a leading role, but bitter orange, citron, and lemon are also used for sweets.

Traditional and contemporary recipes

1. Spoon Sweet Bitter Orange (or Citron/Orange):
   • Description: The most traditional way of using citrus fruit. The peels of the fruit, mainly bitter orange or citron (due to their intense aroma), are cut into pieces, blanched repeatedly to remove the bitterness, and then boiled with sugar and water until the syrup thickens. Spoon sweet with four citrus fruits (orange, bitter orange, lemon, grapefruit) is a modern variation that combines flavors and aromas (1.1, 6.2).
2. Wine-Braised Octopus with Citrus Zest:
   • Description: Although octopus is not mentioned specifically, citrus fruits in general are used in Chian cuisine to flavor meats and wine-braised cuttlefish (6.3). A traditional technique is to add lemon or mandarin juice and zest at the end of cooking the octopus or cuttlefish, imparting a pleasant acidity and aroma (6.1, 6.3).
3. Mandarinade or 3-Citrus Juice (Modern):
   • Description: The simple consumption of citrus juice is common (1.1). However, modern processing units produce natural juices and soft drinks based on Chian citrus fruits (1.3, 1.4). Fresh Natural 3-Citrus Juice (orange, mandarin, lemon) represents a modern trend that makes use of the richness of Chian fruits.