sour cherries of Agiasos

The sour cherries of Agiasos are widely known in the local community of Lesvos primarily as a raw material for the production of the traditional sour cherry spoon sweet and sour cherry cordial. As a fruit, they belong to the Rosaceae family and are a tart relative of the sweet cherry. Their cultivation in Agiasos has a historical dimension, as they formed part of the settlement’s agricultural production as early as the 19th century. In contrast to other areas of Greece, where well-known sour cherry varieties were developed (such as “Kanaris”), production in Agiasos appears to be based on local varieties that have adapted to the soil and climate conditions of Olympus, even though no individually distinct varieties are officially recorded. Nevertheless, official surveys report that a proportion of consumers and producers has purchased or cultivated local varieties of Agiasos.

The cultivation of sour cherries is found in the wider region of Agiasos, a traditional settlement located in the interior of the island of Lesvos, built on the eastern flanks of Mount Olympus at an altitude of approximately 475 meters. The area is characterized by semi-mountainous topography, with relatively fragmented tracts of arable land, due to its mountainous morphology.

The soil and climatic environment of Olympus is crucial for the quality of the fruit. The area has rich vegetation, with extensive forests of black pine and the renowned chestnut grove, which indicates a cooler microclimate and sufficient moisture compared to the coastal areas of Lesvos. The lower temperatures and the large difference between day and night temperatures observed at such altitudes contribute to the development of sour cherries, which require cold for fruit set. The soil, typical of a mountainous region, is suitable for the cultivation of fruit trees, giving the fruit particularly aromatic and flavorful characteristics.

The cultivation of sour cherries in Agiasos mainly follows traditional and mild practices, often on a family scale or in small plots, within orchards that also include other fruit trees (cherries, apples, chestnuts).

Cultivation Method

The sour cherry tree is a deciduous tree that thrives in areas with cold winters. In Agiasos, cultivation benefits from the mountainous climate. Care includes:

• Pruning: Carried out mainly in winter to shape the tree and provide aeration, which is vital for the plant’s health.
• Fertilization & Irrigation: Natural fertilizers are often used. Irrigation is important during fruit development, although the Olympus area usually has sufficient moisture.
• Local Practices: Traditionally, tree care was carried out through personal effort and laborious work due to the fragmented and mountainous terrain.

Harvesting

The ripening season of sour cherries, usually in summer (late June – early July), coincides with the fruit’s seasonality in the rest of Greece. Harvesting in Agiasos is done by hand, despite the high cost this method entails. Traditional hand-picking is essential to preserve the quality of the delicate fruit and to select the best ones for processing, mainly for spoon sweet.

Processing

The main use of Agiasos Sour Cherries is the production of processed products on a family and small-scale workshop level, as the trade of fresh fruit has been significantly limited.

• Spoon Sweet: The sour cherry pits are carefully removed (traditionally with a hairpin or special tool) and boiled with sugar and their juice in stages, a process that requires patience and experience for the syrup to set properly and for the texture of the fruit to be preserved.
• Vissinada: The juice collected during the pitting is used to make the concentrated syrup, vissinada, a traditional refreshment.

The production of Agiasos Sour Cherries has primarily a cultural and socio-economic impact on the local community, rather than a major commercial impact at the island level.

• Preservation of Agricultural Tradition: Together with chestnuts and cherries, the cultivation of the sour cherry tree contributes to maintaining the multi-crop character of Agiasos’ agricultural production, as opposed to the dominant olive cultivation. This ensures the preservation of traditional varieties and biodiversity in the mountainous region of Olympus.
• Local Economy: The processing of sour cherries into spoon sweets and sour cherry cordial is a source of income for small family and artisanal enterprises in Agiasos, strengthening the local market with high value-added products that are sold to visitors and in the local market of Lesvos.
• Tourism: Sour cherry spoon sweet is a gastronomic hallmark of the settlement, attracting visitors who seek authentic traditional flavors, reinforcing the synergy between agricultural production and tourism.

Agiasos, known for its traditional architecture and religious character, has a rich agricultural tradition dating back at least to the 19th century. Agricultural production, which included, in addition to olives, chestnuts, walnuts, apples, cherries and sour cherries, received a major boost after 1924, when ecclesiastical, municipal and school lands were distributed to landless cultivators. The people of Agiasos transformed the mountainous terrain into arable land with great effort. The sour cherry tree was one of the trees that thrived at this altitude, meeting the need for the production of sweets and refreshments, especially at a time when preserving fruit was a challenge.

The connection between sour cherry and the culture of Agiasos is inseparable, as sour cherry spoon sweet is one of the most characteristic treats of the area. Although the cultivation of sour cherry trees on a commercial scale has decreased, their preservation in gardens underscores their importance as a heritage and a recipe passed down from generation to generation.

Its presence is linked to two main traditions:

1. The Treat of Spoon Sweet: The most widespread tradition in Agiasos, as in all of Greece, is offering spoon sweet with Greek coffee or when welcoming guests into the home. Sour cherry spoon sweet is one of the most beloved and famous varieties, symbolizing hospitality and seasonality. Its intense color and distinctive taste make it a first choice for the summer months.
2. The Preparation of Vissinada: Traditional vissinada, the concentrated sour cherry juice, is prepared at the same time as the spoon sweet, using the juice released by the fruit during pitting. It is the quintessential refreshing homemade soft drink of the summer, embodying the traditional Greek practice of fully utilizing the raw material.