Crispy (cherries) Agiaso
The area of Agiasos on Lesvos is traditionally renowned for the production of cherries, among other mountain products such as chestnuts and apples, a fact highlighted by the now established Cherry Festival of the village. “Tragana Agiasou” are one of the local cherry varieties cultivated in the area, along with others such as Petrokeraso, Bourla, Kokkina tis Evropis, Kifisia cherries, Mavro tis Agiasou and the Glykou variety, which yields sweet-and-sour fruit. The use of the name “Tragana” (“crunchy”) serves as an indication of quality that emphasizes the texture of the fruit, a common practice for showcasing quality characteristics in many regions of Greece.
“Tragana (cherries) Agiasou” are recognized as a local variety (or group of varieties) that is adapted to the specific soil and climatic conditions of semi-mountainous Agiasos and is kept alive thanks to traditional cultivation. This local genetic diversity is critical for the resilience and adaptation of crops to the island’s microclimate.
The production area of Agiasos cherries is the mountainous traditional settlement of Agiasos, which is located on the slopes of Mount Olympus of Lesvos. Agiasos is famous for its rich natural environment, with tree-covered landscapes that include olive groves, chestnut groves and pine forests, at the edges of which the small cherry orchards develop. The altitude, combined with the proximity to the mountain, ensures cool valleys and good conditions for the cultivation of the cherry tree (Prunus avium L.), which thrives in semi-mountainous environments. The microclimate of the area, with lower temperatures and sufficient humidity compared to the coastal areas of the island, contributes to the development of fruits with the desired crunchiness and the organoleptic characteristics that have earned them the name “Tragana”. The production of Agiasos cherries is closely linked to the tree-crop farming tradition of the wider rural hinterland of the village.
The cultivation of cherry trees in Agiasos, as an agricultural product in orchards and farms, is based on traditional practices that have been adapted to the mountainous conditions of the area. The cherry tree needs deep soils with good texture (clay-sandy or gravelly) that retain moisture but at the same time drain well and quickly, as it is sensitive to excessive soil moisture, especially during ripening.
- Soil and Climatic Requirements: The cherry tree requires chilling hours during the winter (depending on the variety, 700–1500 hours below 7.2°C) to break bud dormancy, conditions that are provided by the mountainous climate of Agiasos. However, the area, like the rest of Greece, is facing the effects of climate change, which may affect its chilling requirements and cause phenomena such as the formation of twin fruits.
- Harvest and Seasonality: The ripening of “Tragana Agiasou” takes place from mid-June (for the probable variety “Unknown Agiasou”) to early July (for “Tragano”). Harvesting is a manual and laborious process due to the cost and the sensitivity of the fruit, but the demand for Agiasos cherries makes it commercially viable.
- Processing: The main use of cherries is fresh consumption due to their excellent organoleptic characteristics (crispness, taste). However, a significant part of the production is used for the preparation of traditional delicacies and by-products in the local community, such as spoon sweets, jams and liqueurs (such as the local cherry-based liqueur KALESMA).
The cherries of Agiasos, especially local varieties such as “Tragana,” are an important agricultural product for the economy and cultural identity of the mountainous community. Their cultivation contributes to local agricultural production alongside chestnuts and apples, providing income to producers. The reputation of Agiasos cherries attracts consumers to the local market of Mytilene, while the established Cherry Festival (usually held in June) has a significant cultural and touristic impact, strengthening the local market and showcasing the traditional settlement. These events promote the island’s gastronomic experience and help preserve the local genetic diversity of cherries, contributing to the sustainability of Lesvos’s rural landscape.
The cultivation of cherry trees in Agiasos has historical roots that go back to the end of the Ottoman era. According to historical accounts, cherry cultivation gradually replaced the extensive cultivation of mulberry trees (sycamine), which were intended for sericulture. The reason for this change was that the silk produced did not enjoy sufficient market absorption, whereas cherries, despite the cost of harvesting them, were in demand in Mytilene, offering a new, sustainable source of income. The introduction of the cherry into the wider region of Greece is considered to have taken place from Asia Minor (Cerasus of Pontus) as early as the 3rd century BC, but in Agiasos it became established as an important product in the 19th century. The preservation and cultivation of local varieties, such as the “Tragana Agiasou,” form part of the area’s intangible cultural heritage, linking the local community with its tree-farming tradition.
The most important custom associated with the cherries of Agiasos is the annual Cherry Festival, which began in 2007, followed the successful model of the Chestnut Festival, and in recent years has been revived with great success. It usually takes place in June and aims to promote the product and boost the local economy.
The festival includes the free offering of about 600 kilos of cherries, the sale of local products by producers, the preparation and offering of dishes and liqueurs based on cherries, walks through accessible cherry orchards, and cultural events such as photography exhibitions and a traditional celebration in the central square. It constitutes a living expression of the cultural heritage of Agiasos and of the close relationship of its inhabitants with their land.
